OFFAL---The Food of the Gods or Forbidden Pleasures?
It is amusing how we attach biblical status to something as primitive as organ meat or offal. Heavenly or Devilish‹which is it?
For centuries, Sweetbreads, Pates, Marrow Custard and Anticuchos were and still are considered specialties in many parts of the world, reserved for the refined, lusty and sophisticated eaters. James Beard and Julie Child, icons in he American culinary revolution revered a good chicken liver appetizer or kidneys in sweet and sour sauce. But to mention these items many today in America, and you receive a groan or my least favorite response --- eeeuuwwwe, gross!
A huge percentage of organ meat now ends up in preformed burgers, hot dogs, breakfast sausage and other products. Ever wonder what is meant in the advertising campaign "100% Beef" ? It it Sirloin? Filet? I doubt it. Try hearts and hooves. Yes that is the way most Americans get their lesser cuts!

In a case of mistaken identity, offal, variety meats and many "good fats" have been much maligned in the modern food media, until recently that is.
But all evidence indicates that they are making a comeback!
The Chicago Sun Times, Bob Appétit, and many respected weblogs have all listed organ meat on their Top 10 menu trends lists for 2009.
Chefs enjoy working with offal for three main reasons. First of all, they are complex and delicious, The layers of complexity in organ meats---nuances of mineral and floral aromas, layers of subtle sweetness and bitterness, the supple texture---these are the same descriptions we use for fine wine. This is the good stuff, not the house pour, and chefs like that! Chefs need variety to show off their creativity. After your 100th filet mignon special, chefs need to explore new things to keep their edge and offal is a great opportunity for that.

Secondly, using the entire animal is the essence of the sustainability movement. If all we desire is round cutlets that fit perfectly on a bun, the processing industry will continue to develop "Franken-meat" to fulfill our desires. We are what we eat and we get what we ask for!
In trying to be sensible and sustainable in our meat choices, we must honor and use the entire animal in a holistic way. New World is way on board on this fact! In choosing to remain true to our nature, we human omnivores have lost sight of the sanctity of the animal. Many local, organic and sustainable livestock farmers love to sell the nasty bits, making their farms more profitable.
Until very recently, when animals were slaughtered for their meat, every part was used--and appreciated. Not just for food, but for everything from toothbrush bristles to backscratchers. To be truly sustainable, we must pay homage to the entirety--this is truly holistic. The more grossed out we are by animal products other than "white meat", the more corporate/industrial food will become a part of our life. So in being well meaning by promoting "no animal products" some of us actually empower the ones we wish to defeat.

The last reason that offal is making a comeback is because of the Global influence on modern chefs. Organ meat is still revered in all, I mean ALL parts of the world except America, where we think that a boneless skinless chicken breast has flavor! From Asia to Argentina, livers, kidneys, tongue, heart, and more are relished by the rich and poor alike. In my travels to Europe and Central America, the most memorable meals I had included some form of "forbidden pleasure". It is what the locals encouraged you to enjoy, as a way of making a connection and creating a bond with our cultures!
On a serious note about health; organ meats from naturally pastured animals are, contrary to contemporary myth, quite healthy for you in moderation. They contain many elusive nutrients, minerals, "good" fat, cystine, elastin, collagen and enzymes that are essential to the development of our own organs, joints, brain and blood. According to bone and fat enthusiast Jennifer McLagan, [author of Beard Award-winning cookbook Fat "marrow is full of minerals and good fat. Queen Victoria ate marrow every day and, while she may have had a full figure, she lived to be 81." That was when life expectancy was much shorter than today! Studies back her claim up, showing that marrow is a good source of protein and is high in monounsaturated fats, which decrease bad cholesterol levels.
So smile, admit you are a carniviore if you are and Use it all----make stock, and in the words of the immortal Julia Child
"Save the liver!!!"